I’d like to share these spectacular images of our Sun, taken by Prasad Agrahar with his home-made spectroheliograph.
His first image is at H-alpha (656 nm), second is at H-beta (486 nm), and the third is at Helium D3 (585 nm).
With this device, IIUC, he can make an image at just about any wavelength that makes it through the front lens of the optics. He posted this to the NCA email list.
DIY!!
Guy Brandenburg
Prasad wrote:
Here are three images of our Sun, taken on Thursday morning with my DIY spectroheliograph. The weather was quite windy, and the seeing was poor.
The above is H-alpha with [sunspot groups] AR 4294 and 4296 dazzling.
This is H-beta
And finally,
The above image is (…) Helium-D3, the emission line at 5875A.
As described in my last post, I got a light curve for a known variable star in my little Seestar S50 a few weeks ago that showed absolutely no variability whatsoever over a roughly 4 hour period. Since this star’s variation occurs extremely regularly, there is a known formula that will give you the precise location in its cycle if you feed in the Julian day (JD). I plugged the start and end times for my run, and got the following:
And was confused
So RRLyrae should have dropped from something near 7.3 magnitude to around 7.6 magnitude, which is a LOT for this sort of thing. But my graph of brightness of RRLyae, compared to a nearby star of roughly the same magnitude, looks like this:
Which is barely any change at all. The few pairs of dots below the blue blob line are glitchy data that should be ignored; notice that it happens for both stars. In fact, I see more variability in the pink comparison star’s brightness than I do with RRRLyrae.
Was the scope indeed pointed at the correct star? Well, I had plate solving on each and every frame, and they all agreed, so, yes.
I did notice a problem with saturation, but didn’t know exactly by how much. Nikolaos Bafitis suggested that I use my mouse to look more closely at the centers of the star images themselves in AstroImageJ. I did so, and at last noticed that one of the boxes held the number of pixel counts right under my mouse pointer. Duh! Sure enough, my target star, RR Lyrae, had a count of 65,533, which is 2^16, and (I looked it up) that is precisely the maximum for these pixels on these CMOS cameras. So that’s why RR Lyrae’s brightness was so steady: it was always OVERFLOWING.
So I have to figure out a way to gather fewer photons per pixel around the target and comparison stars. There are several possible ways of doing so without changing the electronics or trying to mess with the operating system or user interface.
Reduce the ISO setting from the current default value.
Shorten the exposure time.
Change the focal ratio by placing a circular mask over the lens aperture.
De-focus the images so that the light is spread out over a larger area.
Add some sort of filter.
Unfortunately right now, the Seestar doesn’t allow you to do either number 1 or number 2. It would be nice if ZWO engineers would add those capabilities in the ‘advanced’ menu,
Number 3 is quite doable. I happen to have on hand a large roll of black Kydex plastic and a set of Forstner bits to make nice holes with. But it this would require a fair amount of time and effort. It would also reduce the resolution of an already rather small 50mm lens.
Number 4 is more easily doable: turn off the autofocus feature and do some experimentation to find a good fixed de-focus point. However, if the stars are too fuzzy, then plate-solving becomes much harder and slower.
Number 5 can be done by using the built-in light pollution filter, whose transmission bandwidth is very small. It’s the bottom graphic below.
The graphics above come from an excellent Unofficial Seestar handbook written by Tom Harnish. He has a number of suggestions that I hope the engineers at ZWO pay attention to and follow.
The option that seems easiest is number 5, using the light pollution filter. If I couple that with the built-in time-lapse feature, I won’t fill the Seestar’s entire memory with a zillion FITS images.
I hope to try this tonight up at Hopewell Observatory, where I can set this up, have it run all night connected to mains power, and I can sleep in a nice warm cabin.
We only truly discovered the nature of galaxies, of nuclear fusion, and of the scale of the universe a mere century ago.
Dark matter was discovered by Vera Rubin just over 40 years ago and dark energy a few years later, just before the time that both professional and amateur astronomers began switching over to CCD and later CMOS sensors instead of film
The first exoplanet was discovered only 30 years ago, and the count is now up to almost six thousand of them (as of 1/21/2024).
While multi-billion dollar space telescopes and giant observatories at places like Mauna Kea and the Atacama produce the big discoveries, amateur astronomers with a not-outrageous budget can now afford to purchase relatively small rigs armed with excellent optics and complete computer control, and lots of patience and hard work, can and so produce amazing images like the ones here https://www.novac.com/wp/observing/member-images/ or this one https://www.instagram.com/gaelsastroportrait?igsh=cjMzYWlqYjNzaDlw, by one of the interns on this project. Gael’s patience, cleverness, dedication and follow-through are all praiseworthy.
However, it is getting harder and harder every year for people to see anything other than the brightest planets, because of ever-increasing light pollution; the vast majority of the people in any of the major population centers on any continent have no hope of seeing the Milky Way from their homes unless there is a wide-spread power outage. Here in the US, such power outages are rare, which means that if you want to go out and find a Messier object, you pretty much cannot star-hop, because you can only see four to ten stars in the entire sky!
One choice is to buy a completely computer-controlled SCT like the ones sold by Celestron. They aren’t cheap, but they will find objects for you.
But what if you don’t want another telescope, but instead want to give nice big Dobsonian telescope the ability to find things easily, using the capabilities inside one’s cell phone?
Some very smart folks have been working on this, and have come up with some interesting solutions. When they work, they are wonderful, but they sometimes fail for reasons not fully understood. I guess it has something to do with the settings in the cell phone being used.
The rest of this will be on one such solution, a commercial one called StarSense from Celestron that holds your phone in a fixed position above a little mirror, and you aim the telescope and your cell phone’s camera at something like the top of a tower far away. Then it uses both the interior sensors on your cell phone and images of the sky to figure out where in the sky your scope is pointing, and tells you which way to push it to get to your desired target.
When it works, it’s great. But it sometimes fails.
You have to buy an entire set from Celestron – one of their telescopes (which has the gizmo built in) along with the license code to unlock the software.
You supply the cell phone.
The entire setup ranges in price from about $200 to about $2,000. You cannot just buy the holder and the code from them; you must buy a telescope too. I already had decent telescopes, which I had made, so I bought the lowest-priced one. I then unscrewed the plastic gizmo, and carved and machined connection to a male dovetail slide for it. I also fastened a corresponding female dovetail to each of my scopes. The idea was to then slip this device off or onto whichever one of my telescopes is going to get used that night, as long as I that has a vixen dovetail saddle, and put inexpensive saddles on several scopes I have access to.
Here are some photos of the gizmo:
NCA’s current interns (Nabek Ababiya and Gael Gomez) and I were wondering about the geometry of the angles at which StarSense would aim at the sky in front of the scope. My guess had been that Celestron’s engineers would make the angles of their device so that the center of the optical pencil hitting the lens dead-on at 90 degrees, and hence coning to a focus at the central pixel of the CMOS sensor, would be parallel to the axis of the telescope tube.
We didn’t want to touch the mirror, because it’s quite delicate. But as a former geometry teacher, I couldn’t leave this one alone, so along with Gael and Nabek I made some diagrams and figured out what the angles had to be if the axis of the StarSense app’s image were designed to be precisely parallel to the axis of the telescope.
In my diagram below, L is the location of the Lens, and IJCK is the cell phone lying snug in its holder. The user can slide the cell phone left and right along that line JD as we see it here, or into out of the plane of the page, but it is not possible to change angle D aka <CDE – it’s fixed by the factory molds to be some fixed angle that we measured with various devices to be 19.0 degrees.
Here is a version of the diagrams we made that showed what we predicted all the angles would be so that optical axis OH will be parallel to the tube axis EBD, and that lens angle ILH is a right angle. We predicted that the mirror’s axis would need to be tilted upwards by an angle of 35.5 degrees (anle HBD).
To our surprise, our guesses and calculations were all wrong!
After careful measurements we found that Celestron’s engineers apparently decided that the optical axis of the SS gizmo should instead aim the cell phone’s camera up by 15.0 degrees (angle BGH below). The only parallel lines are the sides of the telescope tube!
We used a variety of devices to measure angle FBD and MNC to an accuracy of about half a degree; all angles turned out to be whole numbers.
Be that as it may, sometimes it works well and sometimes it does not.
Zach Gleiberman and I tested it on an open field in Rock Creek Park here in DC back in the fall of 2024, using the Hechinger-blue 8 inch dob I made 30 years ago and still use. We found that SS worked quite well, pointing us quite accurately to all sorts of targets using my iPhone SE. The sky was about as good as it gets inside the Beltway, and the device worked flawlessly.
Not too long afterwards, I decided to try out an Android-style phone (a REVVL 6 Pro) so that I wouldn’t have to give up my cell phone for the entire evening at Hopewell Observatory. I was unpleasantly surprised to find that it didn’t work well at all: the directions were very far off. I thought it might be because the scope in question had a rather wide plywood ring around the front of its very long tube, and that perhaps too much of the field of view was being cut off?
Why it fails was not originally clear. I thought nearly every modern phone would work, since for Androids, it just needs to be later than 2016 and have a camera, an accelerometer, and gyros, which is a pretty low bar these days. However, my REVVL 6 Pro from T-Mobile is not on the list of phones that have been tested to work!
Part of my assumption that the axis of the SS gizmo would be parallel to the axis of the scope was an explanation that StarSense on had such a large obstruction in front of the SS holder, in the form of a wide wooden disk reinforcing the front of a 10″ f/9 Newtonian, that the SS was missing part of the sky. We now know that’s not correct. It’s an interface problem (ie software) problem.
Alan Tarica, Pratik Tambe, Tom Crone and I have been pulling our hair out for a couple of years, trying to use cameras and software to measure the ‘figure’ of the telescope mirrors that we and others produce in our telescope-making class.
There has been progress, and there has been frustration.
I think we finally succeeded!
Some of the difficulties have been described in previous posts. In brief, we want our mirrors to be really, really close to a perfect paraboloid. There are many ways of doing those measurements and seeing whether one is close enough, but none of those methods are easy!
(By the way, one needs the entire mirror to be within one-tenth of a wave-length of green light of that ideal paraboloid! That’s extremely tiny, and equivalent to the thickness of a pencil over a ten-mile diameter!)
I think I can finally report a victory. My evidence is this graph that I made just now, using data that Alan and I gathered last night with our setup, which consists of a surveillance camera coupled to an old 35mm SLR film camera lens, which is mounted on a linear actuator screw connected to a stepper motor controlled by an Arduino and a Python app developed by Pratik.
Something seemed to be always a bit — or a lot — ‘off’.
The blue dots just above the x-axis are the measurements for this one particular mirror with a diameter of 8″ and a radius of curvature of 77 inches.
The dotted blue curve in the middle of the image is the best-fit parabola for those dots. Notice that the R-squared value (variance) for that curve is not great: 0.3599.
But that variance isn’t important. What is important is the green and orange blobs and curves above and below the blue ones.
The green and orange curves are the upper and lower allowable limits for the measurements of this particular mirror, using the
Clearly, the blue dots are all well within the green and orange curves.
Which means that this mirror is sufficiently parabolized.
The fact that the blue dots don’t fit the dotted line perfectly, and behave pretty oddly at positive or negative 80 millimeters, both agree with the fact that we can see on the photos that the surface of this mirror is rather rough, as you can see in the images below. Note also that the image labeled ‘Step 6’ found not one, but two null zones on the right, indicated by two vertical blue lines.
So, finally, we have an algorithm that gives good measurements! What I still want to do is to automate all the spreadsheet calculations that I just did today. Perhaps we can upload them to something like FigureXP by Dave Rowe and James Lerch.
Thanks very much to all those who have helped, whom I should look up and name here.
Caveat: This method can give really ridiculous measurements close to the center and close to the edge.
PS: if anybody wants the raw data, just email me at gfbrandenburg at gmail dot com.
Hopewell Observatory is once again holding a free, public, Autumn observing session, and you are invited.
You and your friends and family can get good looks at the planets Saturn and Jupiter, as well as a bunch of open and globular star clusters. And there will be a gaggle of galaxies and double stars to look at as well.
We have a variety of permanently-mounted and portable telescopes of different designs, some commercial and some made by us, some side-by-side. Two or three people can view the same object in the sky, through different optics, with different magnifications, all at the same time! The differences can be quite amazing…
You will be capturing those photons with your own eyes, in real time, as they come to you from however far away, instead of looking at someone’s super-processed, super-long-exposure, false-color, astro-photograph (as beautiful as that image may be).
We suggest arriving near sundown, which will occur around 6 pm on 11/4/2023. It will get truly dark about 7:30 pm. The waning, last-quarter Moon won’t rise above the trees until roughly midnight. While beautiful, the Moon’s light can be so bright at Hopewell that it casts very obvious shadows, and this of course tends to make distant nebulae and our own Milky Way harder to see., so we will have many hours of Moon-free observing if the weather holds up.
If it is hopelessly cloudy and/or rainy and/or snowing, we will cancel and reschedule.
There are no street lights near our observatory, other than some dimly illuminated temporary signs we hang along the path, so you will probably want to bring a flashlight of some sort. Your cell phone probably has a decent one, but it’s better if you can find a way to cover the white light with a small piece of red plastic tape– it will save your night vision.
If you own a scope or binoculars, feel free to bring them, and you can set it/them up on our lawn.
Hopewell is about 30 miles (~45 minutes) by car from where I-66 intersects the DC beltway, but rush hour gridlock can double that time, easily. The observatory is located atop Bull Run Mountain – a ridge that overlooks Haymarket VA from an elevation of 1100 feet, near the intersection of I-66 and US-15. The last two miles of road are dirt and gravel, and you will need to walk about 250 meters/yards from where you park. We do have electricity, and a heated cabin, but since we have no running water, we have an outhouse and hand sanitizer instead.
Detailed directions are below.
Assuming good weather, you’ll also get to see the Milky Way itself, although not as well as in years past, because of ever-increasing light pollution.
If you like, you can bring a picnic dinner and a blanket or folding chairs, and/or your own telescope binoculars, if you own one and feel like bringing them. We have outside 120VAC power, if you need it for your telescope drive, but you will need your own extension cord and plug strip. If you want to camp out or otherwise stay until dawn, feel free!
If it gets cold, our Operations Building, about 40 meters north of the Observatory itself, is heated, and we will have the makings for tea, cocoa, and coffee.
Cautions
Warning: While we do have bottled drinking water and electricity and we do have hand sanitizer, we do not have running water; and, our “toilet” is an outhouse of the composting variety. At this time of year, it’s often too cold for many of the nastier insects, feel free to use your favorite bug repellent, (we have some), tuck your pants legs into your socks, and check yourself for ticks after you get home.
The road up here is partly paved, and partly gravel or dirt. It’s suitable for any car except those with really low clearance, so leave your fancy sports car (if any) at home. Consider car-pooling, because we don’t have huge parking lots.
Our Telescopes
Two of our telescope mounts are permanently installed in the observatory under a roll-off roof. One is a high-end Astro-Physics mount with a 14” Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope made by Celestron and a 5” triplet refractor by Explore Scientific. The other mount was manufactured about 50 years ago by a firm called Ealing, but the motors and guidance system were recently completely re-done by us with modern electronics using a system called OnStep, after the old gear-and-clutch system died. We didn’t spend much cash on the conversion, but it took us almost a year to solve a bunch of mysteries of involving integrated circuits, soldering, torque, gearing, currents, voltages, resistors, transistors, stepper drivers, and much else.
We could not have completed this build without a lot of help from Prasad Agrahar, Ken Hunter, the online “OnStep” community, and especially Arlen Raasch. Thanks again! (OnStep is an Arduino-based stepper-motor control system for astronomical telescopes that uses very inexpensive, off-the-shelf components such as stepper motors and their controller chips that were developed previously for the very widespread 3-D printing and CNC machining industry. The software was written by Howard Dutton. Thanks, Howard!)
The original, highly accurate Byers gears are still in place, but now it’s not just a Push-To-and-Track scope, but a true Go-To mount with very low periodic error that we can run from a smart phone! On this incredibly rugged scope mount we have two long-focal-length 6″ refractors by Jaegers and D&G, a home-made short-focal-length 5″ refractor, and a 10″ Meade SCT.
We also have two alt-az (Dob-mounted) telescopes, 10″ and 14″, both home-made, that we roll out onto our lawn, and a pair of BIG binoculars on a parallelogram mount.
Both the observatory building and the operations cabin were completely built by the hands of the original founders, starting in the early 1970s. This included felling the trees, bulldozing the clearing, planning and pouring the foundations, laying the concrete blocks, welding the observatory’s roll-off roof, and repurposing a bomb hoist to open and close that roof. Many of the founders (Bob McCracken, Bob Bolster, Jerry Schnall in particular) have passed away, but we current members continue to make improvements both small and large. In the Operations Cabin, you can see some wide-field, film astrophotos that Bolster made, and the Wright-Newtonian scope that he built and used to make those images.
Access
After parking at a cell-phone tower installation, you will need to hike south about 250 meters/yards to our observatory. Physically handicapped people, and any telescopes, can be dropped off at the observatory itself, and then the vehicle will need to go back to park near that tower. To look through some of the various telescopes you will need to climb some stairs or ladders, so keep that in mind when making your plans.
Our location is nowhere near the inky dark of the Chilean Atacama or the Rockies, but Hopewell Observatory is partly surrounded by nature preserves maintained by the Bull Run Mountain Conservancy and other such agencies, and our neighbors on both sides of the ridge have never been a problem. Unfortunately, the lights in Gainesville and Haymarket seem to get brighter every year. “Clear Outside” says our site is Bortle 4 when looking to our west (towards the mountains) and Bortle 6 to our east (back into the suburban sprawl).
DIRECTIONS TO HOPEWELL OBSERVATORY:
[Note: if you have a GPS navigation app, then you can simply ask it to take you to 3804 Bull Run Mountain Road, The Plains, VA. That will get you very close to step 6, below.]
Otherwise:
(1) From the Beltway, take I-66 west about 25 miles to US 15 (Exit 40) at Haymarket. At the light at the end of the ramp, turn left (south) onto US 15.
(2) Go 0.25 mi; at the second light turn right (west) onto VA Rt. 55. There is a Sheetz gas station & convenience store at this intersection, along with a CVS and a McDonald’s. After you turn right, you will pass a Walmart-anchored shopping center on your right that includes a number of fast- and slow-food restaurants. After that you will pass a Home Depot on the right.
(3) After 0.7 mi on Va 55, turn right (north) onto Antioch Rd., Rt. 681, opposite a brand-new housing development called Carter’s Mill.
(4) On Antioch Rd. you will pass entrances for Boy Scouts’ Camp Snyder and the Winery at La Grange. Follow Antioch Road to its end (3.2 mi), then turn left (west) onto Waterfall Rd. (Rt. 601), which will become Hopewell Rd after you cross the county line.
(5) After 1.0 mi, bear right (north) onto Bull Run Mountain Rd., Rt. 629. This will be the third road on the right, after Mountain Rd. and Donna Marie Ct. (Do NOT turn onto Mountain Road. Also note that some apps show a non-existent road, actually a power line, in between Donna Marie Ct. and Bull Run Mtn. Rd.) Bull Run Mtn Rd starts out paved but then becomes gravel, and rises steadily.
(6) At 0.9 mile on Bull Run Mountain Road, you will see a locked stone gate and metal gate, on your left, labeled 3804. That is not us! Instead, note the poorly-paved driveway on the right, with the orange pipe gate swung open and a sign stating that this is an American Tower property. We will also put up a temporary, lighted sign to Hopewell Observatory. (We have long-standing permission to use the cell tower’s access road). This is a very sharp right hand turn.
(7) Follow the narrow, poorly-paved road up the ridge to a fenced-off cell phone tower station. Drive through both orange gates. Try to avoid potholes. In places where there is a high ridge between the tire tracks, I suggest you NOT try to straddle the ridge. Instead, straddle the low spot, and drive with one set of tires riding on the high central ridge.
(8) Park your vehicle in any available spot near that cell phone tower or in the grassy area before the wooden sawhorse barrier. Then follow the signs and walk, on foot, the remaining 250 yards along the grassy dirt road, due south, to the observatory. Be sure NOT to park in such a way that your vehicle will block the right-of-way for any other vehicle.
(9) If you are dropping off a scope or a handicapped person, move the wooden barrier out of the way temporarily, and drive along the grassy track into the woods, continuing south, bypassing a white metal bar gate. (The very few parking places among the trees near our operations cabin, are reserved for Observatory members and handicapped drivers.) If you are dropping off a handicapped person or a telescope, afterwards drive your car back and park near the cell phone tower, and put the barrier back into place. Thanks.
Please watch out for pedestrians, especially children!
In the operations cabin we have a supply of red translucent plastic film and tape and rubber bands so that you can filter out everything but red wavelengths on your flashlight. This will help preserve everybody’s night vision.
The cabin also holds a visitor sign-in book; a first aid kit; a supply of hot water; the makings of hot cocoa, tea, and instant coffee; hand sanitizer; as well as paper towels, plastic cups and spoons.
The location of the observatory is approximately latitude 38°52’12″N, longitude 77°41’54″W.
A map to the site follows.
If you get lost, you can call me (Guy) on my cell phone at 202 dash 262 dash 4274 or email me at gfbrandenburg at gmail dot com.
A decade or so ago, I bought a brand-new Personal Solar Telescope from Hands On Optics. It was great! Not only could you see sunspots safely, but you could also make out prominences around the circumference of the sun, and if sky conditions were OK, you could make out plages, striations, and all sorts of other features on the Sun’s surface. If you were patient, you could tune the filters so that with the Doppler effect and the fact that many of the filaments and prominences are moving very quickly, you could make them appear and disappear as you changed the H-alpha frequency ever so slightly to one end of the spectrum to the other.
However, as the years went on, the Sun’s image got harder and harder to see. Finally I couldn’t see anything at all. And the Sun got quiet, so my PST just sat in its case, unused, for over a year. I was hoping it wasn’t my eyes!
I later found some information at Starry Nights on fixing the problem: one of the several filters (a ‘blocking’ or ‘ITF’ filter) not far in front of the eyepiece tends to get oxidized, and hence, opaque. I ordered a replacement from Meier at about $80, but was frankly rather apprehensive about figuring out how to do the actual deed. (Unfortunately they are now out of stock: https://maierphotonics.com/656bandpassfilter-1.aspx )
I finally found some threads on Starry Nights that explained more clearly what one was supposed to do ( https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/530890-newbie-trouble-with-coronado-pst/page-4 ) and with a pair of taped-up channel lock pliers and an old 3/4″ chisel that I ground down so that it would turn the threads on the retaining ring, I was able to remove the old filter and put in the new one. Here is a photo of the old filter (to the right, yellowish – blue) and the new one, which is so reflective you can see my red-and-blue cell phone with a fuzzy shiny Apple logo in the middle.
This afternoon, since for a change it wasn’t raining, I got to take it out and use it.
Two days ago, Joe Spencer had first light with the 6″ f/8 Dobsonian he built in the DC-area amateur telescope workshop. He worked hard on this project over more than a year, including grinding, polishing and figuring his mirror, and it seems to work very well.
For many months, we members of The Hopewell Observatory have been doing our best to repair the 50 year-old clock drive on our university-grade Ealing telescope mount.
Yesterday, after a lot of help from others, I finally got it to work — at least in the day time. With no telescopes mounted on it. And 100% cloud cover. So I really don’t know for sure.
We still need to test it out on a clear night, to see how well it tracks and finds targets.
I think I will re-configure the wiring so that it fits in a box outside the mount, instead of using the weirdly-shaped compartments inside: one needs to do occasional maintenance on the OnStep hardware and software, and none of that is easy to access right now.
I think I have figured out what was going wrong with our OnStep build:
Our unmodified Arduino-based, green, MaxESP3.03 OnStep micro-controller unit board had two major errors: it didn’t put out any signal at all in the Enable channel in either Right Ascension or in Declination, and in Declination, the Step channel didn’t work either. (I can only guess what caused this, or when it happened, but these errors explain why we couldn’t get this particular board to work any more.)
We had the connecting wires between the two blue, modified boards of the same type and the external TB6600 stepper drivers in the wrong arrangement. We stumbled upon a better arrangement that Bob Benward had suggested, and indeed it worked!
I never would have figured this out without the nice hand-held digital oscilloscope belonging to Alan Tarica; his help and comittment to this project; advice from Ken Hunter that it was a bad idea to have the boards and stepper drivers connected, because the impedance of the motors makes the signal from the board too complicated, and also the signals to the motors themselves are extremely complex! Let me also thank Bob Benward for making beautiful and elegant schematics from the drawings I’m making with pencil and eraser on a couple of 11″x17″ sheets of stiff art paper and pointing out the anomalies between our (Ken’s? I thought I was faithfully copying his arrangements….) original wiring connections and what the manual recommends.
I’m puzzled that our earlier arrangement worked at all. Given that this oscilloscope sees extremely complex, though faint, voltage curves from my own body (anywhere!), I am guessing that electrical interference fooled the drivers into sending the correct commands to the stepper motors even though the STEP and the DIRECTION wires were crossed.
In any case, I attach tables summarizing what I found with the same oscilloscope I had in the previous post. I have highlighted parts that differ between the three boards. Boards “Oscar” and “Linda” are basically identical ones, both of them modified to bypass the location where small, internal stepper motor drivers (about the size of the last joint on your pinky finger) are normally held. Instead, these two boards, both blue in color, connect to two external black-and-green stepper drivers about the size of your hand.
Board “Nancy” differs from the other two in a number of ways: it’s green, which is not important for its function but makes it easier to distinguish. It is also an unmodified one, and it carries TMC5160 stepper driver chips pushed into two rails.
I used orange and green to highlight the differences in output.
With electronics: when it works, it’s amazing, but it is very, very fragile.
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Edit: It all works just fine on my desk. I hope it will also work once we put it into the telescope’s cavities and wire everything up!
A 3-minute video of the results of our first-time installation of something called an OnStep conversion. We are replacing the telescope drive of a venerable but beautifully machined telescope mount, located at a small group-owned observatory called Hopewell, atop a ridge called Bull Run Mountain*.
It’s alive!
Sorry, it’s not the greatest or clearest video. Also, I mistakenly state at about 0:25 in the video that the right ascension axis was turning at 12 RPM, but it’s not: I should have said 5 RPM, or one revolution in 12 seconds.
You can hear some stuttering of one of the motors. You are right, that is not a good sound. We were able to get it to stop and start making that noise and motion by adjusting the precise positioning of some of the gears. It will take some time and experimentation to get that perfect.
Later on (not captured in this video), when I was trying to slew in the declination axis at the highest speed possible, the stepper motor once again screamed and halted. I’m hopeful that all of those problems can be fixed by doing one or more of these things:
1) adjusting the fit of all those gears;
(2) changing certain parameters of microstepping and current to the stepper motors in software; and/or
(3) increasing the voltage to the board from 18 VDC to 24 VDC.
I’ll need to test things out on my desk at home, using the same OnStep board, but without the gears and timing belt. (That stuff was a royal PITA to remove screw back into place, and none of us have any desire to take them back out again!) I have some identical extra stepper motors that I can test out, with gloved hands, to see if it is possible to stop the motors from turning. Right now, I still don’t think they are putting out the amount of torque needed.
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*Yes, that famous Bull Run of Civil War fame is not far away. However, our observatory is named after a different geological feature, namely the Hopewell Gap that cuts through the hard rock of Bull Run Mountain right about where where the creek called Little Bull Run begins.
If you are reading this, you probably know that serious amateur, and all professional, astronomical telescopes (except for Dobs) are generally driven by ‘clock drives’ so that the object one is viewing or photographing stays properly centered as the earth rotates imperceptibly beneath us. The original Ealing motor drive at Hopewell, while turning excellent Ed Byers gears, had been an intermittent problem ever since it was delivered to the University of Marylandabout 50 years ago. It was in fact not operational when they sold it to us for a pittance about 30 years ago. (If you go to the University of Maryland Observatory site I linked to, the scope we have now is the one in the center of the 1970s – era photo labeled ‘Figure 4’.)
Bob Bolster, one of the founding members of Hopewell observatory, disassembled the drive, modified it considerably, and got it working again, several years before I joined the group. The scope worked, off and on, with a very complex clutch system for ‘fast’ and ‘slow’ movement of the scope, for most of the rest of the last 25 or so years, except for occasional motor burnouts and clutch replacements. Also unfortunately, the optics on the original 12″ Ritchey-Chretien telescope, were not very good, so we removed them, had them in an attic for many years, re-tested them, and finally sold the glass and the holders, for a pittance, to someone in Italy who wanted to try to re-figure them.
This was originally a ‘push-to’ telescope, meaning that one loosened up two Byers clutches (one for each axis), located the desired target in the sky, tightened the two clutches, did some fine tuning with an electric hand paddle to center the target more precisely, and then allowed the telescope drive to then keep the object in the center of the eyepiece or camera field of view as long as one wanted. It originally came with metal setting circles (basically, finely-made protractors that showed where the scope is pointing vis-a-vis the polar and declination axes), which made finding targets possible, though not trivial!
About 15 years ago, Bolster (with some help from me) installed Digital Setting Circles, which used a rotary encoder on each axis, along with a small hand-held computer and screen display, to allow one to select a given target; the DSC hand paddle’s display then would indicate how far one should rotate the scope along those axes to find the desired celestial object; when it was in the field of your widest eyepiece, one used the hand paddle to center it more precisely.
Converting this scope to an OnStep drive will, I hope, make this a Go-To scope in which one can command the telescope to aim at whatever target one desires.
Unfortunately, right now, the fastest it seems to rotate in Declination, with no load whatsoever (all scopes have been removed, so no balance or inertia problems) is about one degree per second. So doing a 180-degree turn in a North-South direction would take a full three minutes. A 30-degree turn would take 30 seconds. Can we make this a bit faster? I hope so.
I wasn’t able to really slew in right ascension (East-West) because the counterweight box, even though empty, seems to require too much torque to rotate right now.
Bolster passed away a few years ago, and this summer, the moment I had been dreading finally arrived: the drive on the Ealing died again, and his amazing skills and tenacity in fixing such problems was gone with him. What’s more, in his final years, his incurable, chronic idiopathic neuropathy made it literally impossible for him to speak, and even typing email responses to the rest of us took a very long time. So most of his wealth of knowledge and experience died with him.
As indicated in my earlier posts (here, here, here, and here), with help from others, I was able to take the two motor setups for the two axes out from the mount and get them working again on my workbench in their original format. I was even able to order and install material for the clutches. However, I discovered that one needed to adjust the clutches very, very precisely, or else they wouldn’t work at all.
I couldn’t figure out how to do that.
And nobody else who belongs to our observatory volunteered to help out, except for removing the scopes and drives from their former positions inside the mount.
So I decided to convert to a totally different type of telescope drive, one inspired by the Arduino boards and 3-D printers. A group of really smart and resourceful hobbyists (engineers?) designed a system around the Arduino environment that uses inexpensive off-the-shelf printed circuits and complex sub-boards and components, used originally mostly in the 3-D printers that have become so popular, to drive at telescope just the way astronomers want them to be driven.
Apparently, there have been many, many OnStep successes, but what we are doing may be the largest and most massive mount to date that has done such a conversion.
I was warned that the entire process would take some months. Those warnings were correct. But that’s OK. I’m retired, I have time, and I have access to tools and people who are interested in helping. What’s more, I have learned a whole lot about modern electronics, and my soldering skills are much better than they ever were.
I’d again like to thank Alan Tarica (who’s physically helped a **tremendous** amount), Prasad Agrahar (who first showed me the OnStep conversions he had done on a much smaller equatorial mount), Howard Dutton (who first conceived and implemented OnStep), Ken Hunter (who made and **donated** to us a complete, functional OnStep board together with all sorts of accessories and walked me by phone and video through many of my fumbling first steps), Khalid Bahayeldin, George Cushing, and many others.
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